Hanoi (VNA) - There are many theories regarding its origin. Somesay it started as a variation on pot-au-feu, a French beef stew dish. Othersbelieve it’s the heir to a Chinese beef noodle soup or to a traditionalVietnamese dish of noodles with buffalo meat. What is certain is that “pho”,a simple yet deceptively complex dish of noodles served with beef or chicken ina hot bowl of broth, has become Vietnam’s pride on the world map of cuisine.

Though its origins are disputed, historiansbelieve “pho” was first made popular in Hanoi and Nam Dinh,two major northern cities, during the French colonial period. And we knowthat “pho” wasn’t invented in a restaurant. It began life on the sideof the road, on the shoulders of street vendors who wandered the city with abig pot of both, always kept hot and ready with their mobile stoves. It wasreinvented many times by vendors and home cooks with ingredients that wereavailable to even the poorest, and it was shaped by the country’s turbulenthistory.

Until the 19th century, Vietnam wasstill largely an agricultural country. Cows were raised not as a source of foodbut to help out with land cultivation and rice farming. In order to protect theanimals’ utility as farming aides, slaughtering them for meat was strictlyforbidden and perpetrators were heavily punished if caught. At the beginning ofthe country’s French colonial period, consuming beef was a foreign practice.Locals either couldn’t afford it or had no desire to try it. 

By the 20th century, attitudes towards beefhad changed, as people flocked to cities where they worked in offices andfactories instead of fields. “Pho” became popular as successfulstreet vendors opened their stores in big cities across the country. As ifdictated by some rule, most stores are named after their founders in a singleword, such as “Pho Hien”, “Pho Thin” or “Pho Co”.

Though beef was once the most distinctive aspectof the dish, the most critical aspect is the broth. It’s always the first thingpeople taste when they tuck into a bowl. A good broth must be clear. It shouldcarry the scent of herbs and spices such as cinnamon, cardamon, corianderseeds, cloves, star anise, onion and pepper as well as the taste of cow bones. Everythingshould be boiled for about six hours for all of the flavours to blend.

When it comes to the broth, it’s almost love orhate at first taste. A good broth means the cook knows what he’s doing andtakes the time and effort to get the dish right. During difficulttimes, “pho” has been served without meat. But the broth must alwaysremain carefully prepared and richly flavourful. If you’re ever looking for anexcellent bowl of “pho”, look for a place where people finish the brothwhen they’re done with the noodles and beef.

Vietnamese people eat “pho” all thetime: for breakfast, lunch, dinner and as a late-night snack. It’s variable andalways satisfying even though there are only two choices when it comes to themeat: chicken or beef.

Since the original “pho” was made withbeef, some die-hard fans insist there is no other way to eat it. But “pho” withchicken has an interesting story of its own. In  early days of “pho”, beefwas a rarity and there wasn’t enough to go around every day of the week. In theold days, “pho” stores closed on Mondays and Fridays because therewas no supply of beef.  People got creative, however, and invented “pho” withchicken.

“Pho” with beef has a strong flavour fromthe cow bones. “Pho” with chicken has a gentler aroma and may come withfatty or lean chicken. Each has their own merits. Ultimately, only personalpreference can settle the question of which is superior. But why choose whenyou can have both?

Not unlike a super hero, “pho” comeswith sidekicks. Two of the foods people love to eat with “pho” areeggs and Chinese crullers (oil sticks).

Eggs are poached in boiling hot water and youcan choose between rare, medium and well-done; just make sure you don’t breakthem. Crullers should be crunchy and crispy—return them if they are not. Theycan be eaten separately from your “pho” but many, including yourstruly, like to dip them in the broth for a mix between crunchiness and a soft,brothy taste. Take care you don’t dip too many because these sticks are oilyand may ruin the broth.

Today, there are more expensive variations andadaptations of the dish, with ingredients like foiegras, Kobe and Wagyu beef, which may cost up to 50-100 USD a bowl.But even after 200 years, one of the best places to have it is still on the sideof the street. Nothing beats the chilling wind of winter better than a hot,street-side bowl of “pho” bought for 2 USD.

“Pho” can be found everywhere and can behad anywhere: in a train cruising across the country, in a boat among abustling floating market of the Mekong Delta and on the pavement of a busycity. It remains a simple and widely affordable dish that carries both thehistory and identity of the people that create it. - VNA