Cao Bang (VNS/VNA) - The image of Tay womensitting beside looms to weave brocade used to be a familiarsight in the northern mountainous province of Cao Bang.

The group was well-known forthe colourful patterns which were passed down from generation togeneration. 

But now, Luong Noi is the only village inHa Quang district that preserves its ancient weaving techniques and tools,and the only area that still retains this traditional brocade weaving of theTay people. The village is part of a cultural heritage site in the NonNuoc Cao Bang UNESCO Global Geopark. This area allows tourists tolearn about the culture, history, faith and traditional practices of localpeople.

Deep passion for the craft

We visited the house of Tay artisan NongThi Thuoc in Luong Noi village on a morning when bright sunlight wasdancing everywhere. Thuoc is the fourthgeneration of her family to carry forwardtraditional brocade weaving, and she was the first among the Taypeople to be awarded the title "Golden Award for a Traditional CraftFamily" by the Vietnam Craft Association in 2016.

Her house is simple with walls madefrom red clay. The sound of wooden looms clatteredand then melodies (Tay singing) came from Thuoc's mobilephone. Her house was full of brocade products with colourful, eye-catchingand traditional patterns.

"Our traditional brocade weaving skillsinclude spinning yarn, framing, creating patterns and weavingfabric," Thuoc said. "All these stages require patience, meticulousnessand creativity."

Stunning patterns

"Each pattern is a combination of bright,dark, warm and cool colours placed harmoniously against an opalescentbackground. This makes the brocade created by Tay people in Cao Bangprovince different from Tay people in other locations, and distinct from otherethnic minority groups," Thuoc said.

According to Hoang Thi Nhuan, a researcheron Cao Bang culture, Luong Noi villagers began weaving brocade about 500years ago. Their products quickly became famous nationwide. In the old days,they grew the cotton themselves.

"The main materials for brocadeweaving are indigo-dyed cotton yarn and dyed silk," Nhuan said.

"There are six colours used by the Taypeople: blue, red, yellow, purple, white and black. The patterns vary,resulting in special products," Nhuan added.

The colour scheme is very important in brocade.There are embossed patterns in vivid colours which stand out against submergedpatterns representing the Earth. The colourful embossed patterns symbolise allthings found on Earth. That's the way the Tay people perceive the universe.

There are 20 different patterns used in theirbrocade including images of plum, peach and apricot blossoms, rare wildflowers, animals and birds, which are mixed with clouds in the sky,mountains and rivers.

"As a deep-rooted tradition, Tay girls haveto learn brocade weaving to make their own wedding dresses," Thuoc said.

"We start learning when weare very young, so weaving clothes, blankets, mosquito nets, pillows and mattressesis a normal thing that everyone can do. 

"The patterns have evolved, and while we'reworking in the fields, we think about creating new flowery patterns - how thethreads should be arranged and how many threads and colours should beused," Thuoc said.

The Tay women weave brocade to make blankets,slings, sheets and traditional costumes. They construct the loomsthemselves, and the designs are stored in their heads, not on paper.

"Each weaver has to think of the number ofthreads and colours needed to produce the desired patterns. Some patternsneed 20 bamboo sticks to create a frame. Others might need as many as100," Thuoc said.

According to researcher Nhuan,traditionally, the flower patterns had eight petals. Now the design has changedto meet different modern demands. But no matter how much the products haveevolved, they still reflect the Tay people's culture. Their embroidered brocadeproducts have stunning patterns with various meanings, reflecting the culturallives and beliefs of the people.

Preservation desire

The traditional brocade weaving craft in LuongNoi village has been around for centuries. Many artisans in the villagelike Nong Thi Thuoc, Nong Thi Duyen, Hoang Thi Le, Nong Thi Iu and Dam ThiSui have devoted their lives to creating more and more uniqueproducts, contributing to preserving their cultural values.

According to artisan Nong Thi Duyen, thereare only a few brocade households left in the village. They do it tosatisfy their passion, as well as to hand the craft down for their nextgenerations, and to create jobs in their spare time.

"Although our products are special, we areunable to mass produce because they are all handmade," Duyensaid.

"Another thing is that there are only a fewartisans left, and most of them are old. Not many youngsters want toget involved in the craft. That makes it difficult to train our children andhand the craft down," Duyen added.

According to head of Luong Noivillage Hoang Van Tin each brocade household earns about 30million VND (1,300 USD) per year. He hopes provincial authorities will come upwith measures to preserve and develop their traditional craft andcultural values./.